On the eve of the tenth season for his eponymous house, Stéphane Rolland credits the work of sculptor Michel Deverne as elemental in conceiving this collection. Artist-Urbanist Deverne tackles space and light with breathtaking energy and astute sensitivity to create kinetic dynamism. Five years since its launch, it has now become clear that manipulating movement is a key component of the Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture brand DNA. Graphic and optical, but also slender and supple, the new figure reflects the image of a dedicated aesthete, a woman resolutely assertive. Pure dresses in silk jersey, sheathe the body as if it were a line stretched through space. This glide explodes into organic sculptures : layered shark fin lapels and spiral cocoons that sprout from shoulders and hips. Skirts arise dramatically from figure-hugging gowns, forming perfectly chiselled marble-smooth arches in gazar, or pouring into lava flows in silk crepe and organza. Embellishment takes the form of authentic sun-channelling folded discs and golden armour. The Land of the Rising Sun is echoed in empowering Samurai-style shoulders and Hakama pants that transmit a feeling of confidence and ease. Finally, a disciplined palette makes way for the story to unfold. Fiery reds, along with absolute whites and blacks serve both to magnify and dignify a collection that exudes magnificence and undeniably reasserts Rolland’s unique talent once and for all.

Introduction of the 37 models of the Haute Couture Summer 2012 collection, at the Galerie des Moulages of the Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine.

Introduction of the 37 models of the Haute Couture Winter 2011/2012, at the Galerie des Moulages of the Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine

The strength and subtlety of a sketch come from the stroke. This season, Stéphane Rolland's inspiration originates from Caoshu, a style of Chinese ancestral calligraphy said to be "en herbes", flowing like wild grass. A continuous line with multiple densities evokes British illustrator David Downton's striking portraits; this ink line morphs into satin braidings and new origami folds in gazar and black organza, laid on bodies sheathed with jersey as a second skin. The figure is long and slender, juxtaposed with generous looping trousers and sleeves. Floating draped fabrics are a reference to Hanfu, the forerunner to the Kimono. Ink drips along the back. The mist of the Guilin Mountains is depicted – painted – on the lower part of dresses and some lapels are adorned with lacquered chopsticks. Black and white, plum, or imperial green harmonies are punctuated with acid bursts in magenta and solar yellow. Thin body-cladding comes in jersey, to which gazar adds dimension, whilst silk satin and paper-thin gauze give a vaporous breath. The ornaments, whether plastrons or belts, are all authentic sculptures. Brushed steel tubes and scales, scratched with pyrites and crystal, resonate with thoughts of Maria Pergay’s designs. Finally, what inspired was the muse, a woman, an attitude, a presence, that of the great Carmen Dell’Orefice. She is statuesque, and appears as a long and mysterious figure, just like a stroke of black ink topped with a white cloud.

From October 26th until October 30th 2010, Stéphane Rolland, guest of honor of the Doha Film Festival. For this special occasion, Stéphane Rolland was the couturier of President's event, Amanda Palmer as well as this second edition's godmother, the mystical Egyptian actress, Youssra.